Now back on track with LVMH horsepower under the hood, Daniel Roth shows the world what modern watchmaking in the 21st century means.
Last year, Daniel Roth made a big comeback. The brand relaunched under Louis Vuitton in February 2023, and just a month later, its first timepiece was unveiled. The limited-edition Tourbillon Souscription is an artful reinterpretation of the watchmaker’s signature Tourbillon C187 from the 1980s. It features the brand’s signature double-ellipse case, which perfectly complements the off-center dial while also highlighting the one-minute tourbillon. The emblematic case is crafted in yellow gold and frames the dial produced by Kari Voutilainen, with a solid yellow gold plate decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche. Today, we get the second generation in rose gold with a new guillochage en ligne dial and an exhibition case back that puts the movement on full display.
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Although the very first examples of the original 187 had dials with a Clous de Paris guilloché (as found on the first-generation Tourbillon Souscription), Daniel Roth chose the linear guilloche of this second-generation model as one of his brand's trademarks shortly after its creation.
What’s more, this latest iteration shares the same instantly recognizable case shape, a fusion of a square and a circle that showcases the tourbillon at six o’clock. While the case is visually nearly indistinguishable from the original C187, it does feature a few minor updates. The reworked lugs flow seamlessly with the case, and the case offers slimmer (and more wearable) proportions thanks to the upgraded DR001 caliber powering the watch.
The DR001 caliber was developed and crafted from the ground up by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, now the master watchmakers for the revived Daniel Roth. The exhibition case back highlights the movement’s bridges, which are finished with Côtes de Genève stripes that are vertically aligned to mirror the linear guilloche on the dial.
The new Daniel Roth Tourbillon in Rose Gold is available today and costs CHF 155,000 (approximately $180,700). The watches will be numbered, starting with “21” and continuing with Souscription. No more than 50 pieces will be produced per year.
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